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The Maine coast
The Long Way Around - Part 2 of a Drive Along Coastal Route 1
By Debra Conklin
Published: September 3, 2006
MUCH to my dismay and delight, early fall has arrived. Dismay,
because very soon, the things I cherish most about summer will be gone.
The birds that awaken me each morning with their twittering and
chirping. The peepers and frogs that lull me to sleep at night.
The colorful bouquet of flowers that adorn my front yard. Gone
also will be my child's carefree days. Days in which he never had
to worry about anything, other than what game he wanted to play or which
Superhero he wanted to be. All will soon be packed away, in my
memory box, until next summer. But, I'm also delighted by the
arrival of fall. I look forward to the crunch beneath my boots as
I stroll through the woods, reminding me of the upcoming holidays and
family gatherings.
Fall brings a sense of well-being and anticipation. Of recalling
good times spent with family and friends. Nature has not quite
given up its battle for beauty, either. Fall brings its very own
special bouquet of righteous color that is bold and vibrant. The
trees shed their glossy greens and put on their coverings of fiery
warmth and cozy golden yellows. The hot, humid muggy days of a few
weeks ago have disappeared and in its place are the warm bright breezy
days of early September. The nights are cooler and make for easier
sleeping and the wilting humidity, that caused sleepless nights, has
given way to a single blanket shiver.
This is the perfect kind of weather for traveling and vacationing.
The days are still warm enough for outdoor activities and still long
enough for an evening stroll. Both of which can be found traveling
along Coastal Route 1 in Maine. There is so much to see and these
waning days of summer are the best days to see them.
In my prior article, I discussed a summer trip on Route 1 from Old
Orchard Beach north to Monhegan Island. Continuing north along
Route 1, the next stop is Bath, which is home to the Bath Ironworks
Naval Shipyard. Established in 1823 by the Sewall family, the yard
sits on the shore of the Kennebec River, where the first English-built
ship in North America was launched. BIW was also the first to
construct the original torpedo boats that led to the history-making
destroyer. Although tours of the facility and ships are not
allowed by the public, the
Maine Maritime Museum, just south of Bath Ironworks, provides an
in-depth collection of exhibits and hands on activities that relate to
Maine's shipbuilding past.
After spending time in Bath, move down Route 1, on winding roads into
Waldoboro and find two unusual and down home places to visit and enjoy.
Though probably not a person's first thought as a place to spend an
afternoon, The
Village Farm Alpacas may peak someone's interest as to how the soft,
luxurious cashmere-like fibers of Alpacas are spun and woven. For
those who are unsure, Alpacas are members of the South American Camelid
Family which include llamas and are often raised as an alternative to
sheep farming. By appointment only, visits can be scheduled for a
special Hands-On Alpaca Day at the farm.
Following a day on the farm, a meal at
Moody's Diner
will definitely feed any appetite that's been worked up. Opened in
1927, Moody's began with renting cabins to weary travelers for just a
dollar per person. When Route 1 was built, the small take-out
which had been serving simple meals to overnighters, was moved closer to
the highway and the Moody's Diner of today was in business. A
family operation, Moody's has been providing home-cooked meals to
families and friends for over 75 years. A memory of a meal shared
at Moody's, by my mother and me comes to mind. It was her first
dining experience without my father in over 25 years and she confided in
me that she was feeling nervous and out of place. It was times
like those, I remember her saying, when she was reminded that she was
now going to have to go it alone. But, she wasn't really alone.
We were together and Moody's was the perfect place to take her, in order
for her to begin this new phase of her life. The homey, welcoming
atmosphere of the staff and diner helped to ease her anxieties.
She was able to relax and simply enjoy her meal in comfort and to feel
natural in her surroundings.
Further up Route 1 and around a few bends in the road, Rockland
comes into view. Originating from a shipbuilding industry and then into
a fishing and lobstering village, Rockland and neighboring town, Owl's
Head are today bustling and thriving communities. Warmer weather
brings an overflow of ocean-side summer residents and downtown shops
throw open their doors in welcome. Year-round residents, as well
as the summer folks, enjoy the arts and history of the
Farnsworth
Museum and the Owl's Head Transportation Museum. Enjoying a
rebirth of its former glory, the renovated
Strand Theater in Rockland now hosts the Maine International Film
Festival, as well as offering the best in independent and world cinema.
The Strand also hosts live musical performances and concerts.
While in Rockland, take a walk along the Rockland Breakwater to the
lighthouse. It's a refreshing stretch for the legs and because it's now
open to the public, it's possible to tour the interior of the main
living quarters of the lighthouse and climb the stairs to the lighthouse
lookout.
Next stop is Camden, one of the most elegant and charming villages along
the Maine coast. Here you will find brick-inlaid sidewalks,
classic storefronts and stately older homes. Rolling hills,
crooked streets and amazing ocean views tempt visitors to spend more
than just a few hours in Camden. Because I'm an avid reader, one
of my most favorite things about Camden is the many opportunities I have
to get lost in the aisles of any of the several bookstores that offer
rare, new, used and collectible books. The selection and ambience
of these independent bookstores are what sets them far and apart from
any big box bookstore. Personal service and knowledge is what is
strived for and provided. The care and pride the owners and staff have
in their businesses are reflected in the way their customers are
treated. It's that kind of individual attention that makes all the
difference.
Lincolnville Beach
in Lincolnville is just a hop, skip and a jump from Camden but feels
like an entirely different pace. The short stretch of beach
entices travelers to stop, kick off their shoes and dig their toes into
the silky sand. Which is exactly what my family and I did the last
time we were in Lincolnville. Instead of passing straight through
this tiny center, which is easy to do, the kids begged us to stop for a
little while so they could wade in the ocean water. After rolling
our eyes, because as parents, we're always in a hurry to get to where
we're going, we reluctantly turned into the Lincolnville Beach parking
lot. The girls ripped off their shoes and ran across the beach to
cool their toes in the still-chilly summer ocean waters and our son fell
to his knees in search of colorful seashells and rocks. My husband
and I sighed and sat wearily on the sand to unfold our legs and work out
the kinks in our necks and backs. As usual, children always know
instinctively where the best stopping spots are along the road. Thank
goodness for young ones who know when to tell the old ones its time for
a break.
Belfast and
Searsport are
where some of the best open air markets can be found. Antiques,
curiosities and rare finds can be found in these historic seaside towns.
Never one to be too proud to rummage and scrutinize goods on display in
old barns or roadside sales, it's a sure bet that on weekends I can be
found cruising around Maine's highways, searching for the really good
deals. Some of my best buys were found in Searsport and the open
air markets or flea-markets. You never know what treasures may be
found tucked in with the trash. There may be nothing of value or
use, on those rickety tables or hidden in the small storage sheds . . .
but then again, there just might be. The thrill of the find is
often worth the effort. In addition to the challenge of open air
shopping, a saunter along the sidewalks of Belfast is sure to surprise
as well. Around every corner and tucked into every downtown
crevice, Belfast is teeming with cultural and artistic shops as well as
some of the finest stores offering clothing, jewelry, books and hard to
find literature. And after a long afternoon of shopping there are
plenty of cafes and eateries to relax in or to linger over conversation
while watching the boats and schooners pull into the harbor.
In the next and final series of Coastal Route 1 articles, I will bring
us into Maine's most famous destination, Bar Harbor and Cadillac
Mountain. Along with a few other side stops on the way.
Happy traveling!
_____
Copyright 2006. Debra Conklin has spent many hours traversing Maine's highways and back roads. Though she's visited many wonderful places within the state, she looks forward to exploring the parts of Maine she has yet to uncover. To contact Deb, email her at: djpconkl@hotmail.com.