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The Fort Knox courtyard
The Long Way Around - Part 3 of a Drive Along Coastal Route 1
By Debra Conklin
Published: September 30, 2006
Summer is indeed over. My second-grader has been in school for over a
month and just this week we had to reluctantly pull out our lightweight
jackets to ward off the morning chill. As we walk down our long
driveway to the bus stop each morning, we comment on the changing
scenery around us. The leaves which have already changed to a bright red
and the apples that have ripened to show off their reds as well. The
brown leaves that crunch beneath our feet as we walk and the colorful
green ferns, which just last month were lush and green, are now curling
and crumbling back into the earth. We are saddened to see summer go,
but then our talk turns to all the fun things there are
to do in the fall. Jumping into sky-high piles of leaves and walks
through the woods in hopes of jumping a squirrel, a rabbit, or if we're
lucky enough . . . a deer. Getting lost in a corn maze, picking apples for
apple pie, the great debate on which pumpkin is the absolute perfect
size for carving, and of course . . . HALLOWEEN!
Fall is the perfect time to see Maine and enjoy the special treats that
Mother Nature has to offer. Although Nature is shedding her summer
attire, we can still look forward to another season of vibrant bloom. Nature's leaves are now quickly becoming lacquered with blinding golds,
yellows and reds. And the best way to see this palette of beauty is to
travel along Maine's roads, especially Coastal Route 1. Fall's
magnificent hues provide the perfect backdrop for our rocky shores and
brilliant blue ocean waters.
In my last article, I left off in Belfast, sipping a cup of tea and
watching the boats pull into the harbor. Refueled and rested, the
journey now continues. Traveling Northeast on Coastal Route 1, a stop in
nearby Prospect brings historic Fort Knox into view. Built in 1844 and located on
the western bank of the Penobscot River, this granite fort was built in
order to protect the river during a border dispute between England and the United States. Although the fort never saw
battle, it was manned by volunteers during the U.S. Civil War and the
Spanish - American War. The fort was sold in 1923 and declared a
historic landmark on Dec. 30, 1970.
A walk through Fort Knox is like taking a step back in time. The
well-preserved fort and immaculate grounds, full of bunkers, artillery
sheds and cannons, are true eye-openers to the past. When my family and
I arrived there for the first time, we were in awe of the men who could
build such an imposing structure. The teamwork, strength and endurance
it must have taken to put those massive granite blocks in place is
astounding. From the curved, graceful arches to the long twisting
corridors of smooth steps, to the cavernous chamber that houses a
hulking cannon and its powerful cannonballs, the architecture is
daunting and impressive.
Exploring Fort Knox was a thrill and an adventure for my family.
It is
easy to get turned around and make yourself wonder, "Did I already come
this way?" My children loved the narrow alleyways that led to, in their
words, "The scary jail cells." I'm not certain if indeed those dark
caves within the fort's walls were truly jail cells for prisoners of
war, but they do make for fascinating stories. So, be sure to bring
along flashlights and lots of batteries, because the children are
definitely going to want to explore the 'secret' corridors and chambers
of Fort Knox. Fort Knox is open May 1 to Oct. 30, so if your plans
include a tour of this remarkable place, these next few weeks would be
the ideal time to visit. Be sure to also bring along a lightweight
jacket and skid-proof shoes. T his time of year, the fort is chilly and
the stone floors may be slippery.
After an afternoon spent at the fort, just across the bridge is the town of Bucksport.
Small and inviting with several long-term downtown businesses, it's a
comfortable place to enjoy a meal or relax on the waterfront.
Further down route 1, weekend driving may get a little more congested as
we inch closer to Bar Harbor, but a stop in bustling Ellsworth gives the opportunity to visit this thriving
city and ease away any driving tensions. While in Ellsworth, a must-see,
if you're a big reader or collector, is the Big Chicken Barn. With over 120,000 rare books, first-edition,
collectible newspapers, posters and magazines, there should be something
to read. As well as books, the Big Chicken Barn also carries porcelain, tin ware, jewelry, furniture, clocks, paintings and prints. This is the
place to go if you're looking for pieces to add to your collection or
simply looking to start an antique collection.
The final destination on this trip along Coastal Route 1 is Bar Harbor
and Acadia National Park and, at the park's center, Cadillac Mountain. Being a Maine native, over the years I have been fortunate enough to be
able to visit this particular park and mountain many times and no matter
how many times I go there, I always discover something new and
beautiful.
Because there is so much to see and do in Bar Harbor and Acadia, even a
week long vacation doesn't seem like enough time. Simply visiting all the
downtown shops can easily take an entire day. One can find off the
wall trinkets and souvenirs to high fashion, name brand clothing and
footwear to funky, as well as imaginative art galleries. But, if shopping isn't
high on your priority list, take a whale watch cruise and delight in the thrill of
seeing
these majestic animals gracefully appear from beneath the ocean's waves. A whale sighting is guaranteed and if for any reason a whale is not
seen, a non-expiring pass will be offered.
Another way to enjoy the harbor is to walk The Ocean Pathway. Approximately a mile long, around the
backside of downtown Bar Harbor, it boasts outstanding views of the
harbor and Frenchman's Bay. When my sister and I visited Bar Harbor
several years ago, our children, bored with trudging through shops, were
excited to walk the shoreline and to jump from boulder to boulder along
the pathway. They searched for crabs beneath the sea moss and delighted
in challenging one another in rock skipping contests. The walk was also
a wonderful chance for my sister and me to relax and unwind and
take a break from the busy sidewalks of Bar Harbor.
After spending time in downtown, a drive to Acadia National Park should
definitely be on any to-do list. When Sis and I visited Bar Harbor, one
of our highlights was the drive to the summit of Cadillac Mountain,
along with a stop at Sand Beach to
bury our toes in the warm sand. A walk along the Great Head Trail was something we were also
excited about doing. The stunning views of pink granite cliffs, Mt.
Desert Island and the Beehive, made for some exceptional photo
opportunities. Another of the park's wonders is Thunder Hole.
Listening to the thunderous crash of surf pounding against this cavern
and watching the ocean waves spout as high as 40 feet, is an
unforgettable moment (as well as a wet one, if you stand too close)
The defining point in our trip to Bar Harbor was the drive to the summit
of Cadillac Mountain. The
winding road that ascends to the top is filled with scenic turnoffs and
dramatic drops. As a child my very first time up this road was frightful
and filled with anxiety. My belief that at any moment we would turn a
corner and find ourselves tumbling over the edges has been shared by
both my children.
But once at the summit, all those fears vanished. The excitement, of
being at very top of the highest mountain on the Northern seaboard, left
us awestruck and open-mouthed. It was indeed the crowning moment to our
day spent in Bar Harbor.
Now that Fall is upon us and the finger of winter touches us, these
upcoming weeks of October are probably the best weeks to initiate or
complete a trip along Maine's coastal route 1. The multicolored
landscape of the season provides a unique and breathtaking occasion to
watch Mother Nature unveil her latest masterpiece.
_____
Copyright 2006. Debra Conklin has spent many hours traversing Maine's highways and back roads. Though she's visited many wonderful places within the state, she looks forward to exploring the parts of Maine she has yet to uncover. To contact Deb, email her at: djpconkl@hotmail.com.