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Gulf Hagas waterfall
Copyrighted photo courtesy Debra Conklin
Gulf Hagas - The Grand Canyon of Maine
By Debra Conklin
Published: October 07, 2005
WHEN I was a girl, taking a Sunday drive was a tradition in our house. My mother would pack a huge lunch, my father would round all of us up
and we'd load into the station wagon. Sometimes we'd go only as far as
the next town over, others as far away as Jackman. It didn't matter as
long as we were together as a family. Because those Sunday drives are so
etched in my memory as some of the best days of my childhood, I've tried
to carry on the tradition with my own family.
Though it's a struggle for my husband and me to find a day off together,
we've made a promise to one another, to devote at least one day a month
to exploring the state of Maine. Of taking the kids, packing a lunch and
loading into the minivan to enjoy our own Sunday drive. We never have a
destination in mind either, so we just dig out the Maine Atlas and
Gazetteer and flip through the pages until we find something that
interests us.
One of our best times was a trip to Gulf Hagas, the Grand Canyon of
Maine. At four miles long with vertical walls of 300 to 400 feet deep,
the canyon boasts five major waterfalls. All of which create chutes and
pools, some that are perfect for swimming. The hiking trails have some
of the best scenery in Maine and The Hermitage is a wonder all by
itself.
Once there, we didn't know what to expect, but we were game to find out.
The first thing we noticed was what appeared to be a giant chimney and a domed structure standing in the middle of the woods. We were baffled by
this and full of curiosity as to the reason why someone would place such
buildings in the backwoods of Maine. Having never heard of Katahdin Iron
Works or what it was even about, we eagerly read the information panels
in front of each structure and were surprised to realize that Katahdin
Iron Works was once a busy iron industry providing iron for farm tools,
machinery and railroad car wheels. The area surrounding the iron works
was also once a thriving settlement that was home to hundreds of workers
and their families. There was even a hotel for summer tourists. This
remote location was a favorite getaway destination for summer
weekenders, some who lived as close as Bangor and some as far away as
Chicago. Sadly, all that's left of this glorious past is the restored
blast furnace and one of the many beehive kilns.
Blast Furnace near Gulf Hagas
Copyrighted photo courtesy Debra Conklin
Katahdin Iron Works operated for 25 years and then closed when an out of
state mill began using steel, which brought in a new era of industry.
The hotel later burned and because of lack of work, the workers and
their families moved away. The land and Katahdin Iron Works is now a
part of the Maine Bureau of Parks and Recreation. For us, this was a
fascinating bit of history and one we never would've known about if we
hadn't decided to go for a drive.
After signing in and paying at the checkpoint, we walked the half mile
to The Hermitage and found we were reduced to ant status by this
towering and impressive stand of white pine trees. Now considered a
National Landmark and owned by the Nature Conservancy, it is another of
Maine's hidden treasures.
We decided to walk the rim trail of Gulf Hagas rather than the easier
tote road. As we moved down the trail, we were in for another surprise
when we learned we would have to cross a frigid stream in order to get
to the trail. Shoes and socks were removed and for a tenderfoot like
myself it was rough going. Once back on the trail, though, we laughed
and teased each other as we proceeded along. We were amazed by the sheer
immensity of the canyon and astonished at how the river had cut its path
through the canyon walls. We explored several side trails and were never
disappointed because the views offered to us, for being a little more
adventurous, were rewarding. But, we also knew that even though it was
all lovely to look at, it would be an extremely treacherous beauty, if
we lost our footing.
As we hiked further, the trail became more challenging for novice hikers
like ourselves and conversation slowed. We made our first stop at the
Screw Auger falls and had a bite to eat. We sat in silence and watched
quietly as the rush of water cascaded over hidden rocks and plateaus.
Because Screw Auger fall is the most popular of the five major
waterfalls, we weren't surprised to see that many of our fellow hikers
had also stopped there for lunch and swimming. Though our daughter
wanted to swim, we unfortunately had not brought along a change of
clothing and like all level-headed parents, we asked her, "Do you really
want to walk the rest of the way in wet clothes?" And like all teenagers
before her, she answered, "They'll dry." Yes, she got to swim and yes,
her clothes did dry.
As we continued to hike, we were thrilled each time we came upon another
waterfall. The beauty and uniqueness of each was jaw dropping. Although,
we would have liked to spend more time at each one of the falls, we knew
that if we were to finish the eight-mile loop trail, before dark, we
would have to keep moving. So, reluctantly we continued down the trail. Because it was summer when we went, the canyon was absolutely
breathtaking. But, my ideal would be to go back during the month of
October in order to see the leaves change from lush green to bright red
and orange, before dropping to the earth in mounds of crackling browns. To be able to see the backdrop of brilliant leaves against polished rock
and rushing water would be reason enough to go back and relive this
Maine wonder.
Located at the West Branch Pleasant River outside of Brownville Junction
in the Katahdin/Moosehead region, Gulf Hagas is well worth the drive to
get there and an extraordinary place to spend the day.
To get to Gulf Hagas.
From the North and South:
I95 to Exit 56 in Medway.
Route 157 & 11 into Millinocket.
Route 11 to Jo-Mary Checkpoint.
Katahdin Iron Works road to the Katahdin Ironworks checkpoint.
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Copyright 2005. Debra Conklin lives in the country with her
family and has been published in various magazines and newspapers.
Her first book of poetry and essays, This Ain't Shakespeare ... But It Sure Is Real